Settlers in Barbados and Charles Town learned to produce two tropical crops alien to English agriculture, sugar cane and rice. In each case, the first planters had problems when they used familiar methods to plant and harvest, and failed financially until they figured out how to prepare the cane and seed for market.
In the first case, James Drax apparently learned from the experience of Dutch growers from Pernambuco. In the second, scholars have taken Edward Randolph’s comment in 1700 that South Carolina had "now found the true way of raising and husking Rice" to suggest an important role for slaves from Africa in introducing the tall wooden mortar and pestle that resembles a butter churn.
At the time he was commenting on rice, Randolph was the Surveyor General of Customs keeping an eye on exports for the crown. The Charles Town economy was a satellite of the Caribbean, supplying it with cattle and meat. The islands, who shipped their cane to Bristol on England’s west coast, were the primary market for slaves.
Most of the South Carolina slaves came from the West Indies. The Portuguese had sent people from Angola who ate manioc and maize, while the Royal African Company worked the west coast of the continent from modern Sénégal to Togoland where people grew dry rice. The monopoly of the latter was not renewed by William III, who had deposed the Stuarts in 1680. The slave trade was opened in 1698 to the merchants of Bristol.
Statistically, the slave who introduced the mortar and pestle for milling rice would have come from the Caribbean and would have been a Konga, since island planters were more likely to reexport or refuse to buy such slaves. However, since the willingness to cooperate with a slave master was probably rare, the individual, probably a woman, may have been recently imported directly from an African area just being opened by the new slave traders where people grew rice.
The mortar and pestle is used for more than rice in Africa. On the east coast, where the pirates were active, women use the large wooden tool in Tanzania with millet, while it’s used with maize in modern Angola. The transfer of technology from one crop to another is the most conservative form of innovation.
Randolph gave no clue, and the adoption of the technology is not recorded in popular or folk history. Fayrer Hall simply said Henry Woodward "was ignorant for some Years how to clean it. It was soon dispensed over the Province; and by frequent Experiments and Observations they found out Ways of producing and manufacturing it to so great Perfection."
Any inferences about the first mortar and pestle drawn from material culture would probably use examples dated much later. The only suggestive thing about Randolph’s comment is the phrase "the true way." He either was using a rhetorical flourish to say "one that works," which he had been known to do, or had seen or heard about the tool elsewhere.
Randolph was a younger son who used his wife’s connections with the grandson of the first proprietor of New Hampshire, Robert Mason, to ingratiate himself with the government of Charles II after the restoration of 1660. Before he went to New Hampshire in 1676, he had read law at Gray’s Inn during the English civil war and bought lumber for the Commissioners of the Royal Navy. The last took him to Scotland for the Duke of Richmond.
Since he had been sent to New England, where he and his brothers became customs collectors, he would have been in a position to see anything on any ship in the harbor and talk with people informally who could make comments, remembered but not recorded, on customs in Africa. At the time he made his comments, he was shuttling between Charles Town and Bermuda.
We’ll probably never know more than the technology was introduced by a slave woman.
Notes:
Anonymous. "Crude and Curious Inventions at the Centennial Exhibition," The Atlantic Monthly 40:420-430:October 1877; drawings of mortars and pestles from Angola and Madagascar.
Hall, Fayrer. The Importance of the British Plantations in America to this Kingdom, 1731, quoted by A. S. Salley Jr., "The Introduction of Rice Culture into South Carolina," Bulletin of the Historical Commission of South Carolina , no 6, 1919.
Mosha, A. C. "Sorghum and Millet Processing and Utilisation in the Southern Africa Development Coordination Conference Area," available on-line with a photograph of a women using a wooden mortar and pestle in northeast Tanzania.
Urquhart, Alvin W. Patterns of Settlement and Subsistence in Southwestern Angola, 1963; picture of mortar and pestle used to make flour from maize.
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